For many serious watch collectors, the allure of a vintage Rolex transcends mere functionality. It's a connection to history, a tangible piece of horological heritage, and a testament to enduring craftsmanship. The 1980s represent a particularly compelling era in Rolex's history, a period of subtle evolution and refined design that laid the groundwork for the modern masterpieces we see today. Among the most sought-after pieces from this decade is the 1985 Rolex GMT Master II "Coke," a watch that epitomizes the blend of robust practicality and undeniable style that defines the brand. This article delves deep into the world of the 1985 GMT Master II Coke, exploring its history, features, variations, and enduring appeal in the current collector's market.
The Rolex GMT Master II Coke Bezel: A Defining Characteristic
The "Coke" moniker, a playful yet perfectly descriptive nickname, refers to the iconic two-tone bezel – a rich red and black combination that immediately identifies this particular GMT Master II. This bezel isn't merely an aesthetic flourish; it's a functional element crucial to the watch's purpose as a GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) timepiece. The 24-hour graduated bezel allows the wearer to track a second time zone with remarkable ease. The red section represents nighttime hours, while the black signifies daytime, providing an instantly legible reference for timekeeping across different geographical locations. The vibrant red of the 1985 models, often described as a deeper, more saturated shade than later iterations, adds to their unique charm and collector value.
16710 Rolex GMT Master II: The Heart of the Matter
The 1985 Rolex GMT Master II Coke belongs to the reference 16710 lineage. This reference number itself holds significant weight within the Rolex community, representing a transitional period in the GMT Master II's evolution. The 16710 marked a departure from the earlier, more robust "Fat Lady" models (which we will discuss later), featuring a slightly slimmer case and refined aesthetics. However, it retained the core functionality and rugged durability that made the GMT Master II a favorite among pilots and travelers. The 16710's case, typically made of stainless steel, provided a balance between elegance and resilience, capable of withstanding the rigors of daily wear.
Rolex GMT Coke Bezel: Beyond the Aesthetics
While the stunning Coke bezel is undeniably a key attraction, the quality of its execution is paramount. The bezel insert on a genuine 16710 Rolex GMT Master II Coke is crafted from a durable ceramic material (or possibly aluminum on very early examples) that resists fading and scratching, ensuring that the vibrant colors remain consistent over time. The precise clicking action of the bezel, a hallmark of Rolex craftsmanship, is another crucial element that discerning collectors appreciate. The smooth, satisfying rotation and distinct clicks are a testament to the watch's meticulous construction.
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